It’s not easy to describe what makes this country so magical. Maybe it’s the sheer scale of the place. Or the way the light hits the sand. Or the fact that I got to track rhinos on foot one morning and watch stars scatter across the sky that same night. Either way, Namibia got under my skin. I’m already planning my return, but here's how this trip went down...

Waterberg Plateau Park - red rock rising

My first stop, about three and a half hours northeast of Windhoek, the Waterberg Plateau towers out of the surrounding bush like a proper red sandstone fortress. It’s dramatic, wild, and surprisingly lush – not at all what I expected from Namibia. I stayed at Waterberg Wilderness, which has a handful of lovely traditional lodges nestled into the bush. It's a peaceful base, and a great place to stretch your legs and start easing into the rhythm of the trip.

The actual Waterberg Plateau Park, managed by Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR), was – to be honest – a bit sad. It’s very run down and not somewhere I’d recommend overnighting. That said, the hike to the top is well worth doing if you’re relatively fit and don't mind a bit of scrambling. Just don’t expect the paths to be clearly marked or well maintained. Stick to the private lodges – they’re far better run and offer great walking trails, guided activities, and the chance to spot rare species like sable, roan and black rhino. The birding’s pretty brilliant too.

Ghaub: raw, remote, rhino country

Next stop – Ghaub. It’s tucked between Waterberg and Etosha, and honestly, I might never have found it if someone hadn’t whispered the name. This place is a hidden gem. A rugged, low-key private reserve with a healthy population of white rhino under constant protection. I went rhino tracking with an expert guide and had the surreal experience of coming face-to-face with one of these tank-like creatures. It was quietly epic.

The lodge is small and unfussy – exactly the way I like it. Afternoons were for exploring; evenings meant fireside chats and proper stargazing. If you’re into caves and slightly offbeat adventures, you’ll love what’s on offer here. Ghaub is the kind of place that feels like yours – unpolished, real, and absolutely unforgettable.

Onguma: Etosha, but better

Then came my favourite – Onguma Private Game Reserve, right on the edge of Etosha’s eastern gate. It’s one of those places that gets everything right. Staying here meant I had easy access to Etosha for day trips, but I got to sleep somewhere quiet, stylish and far from the park crowds. The actual Etosha camps (yes, the NWR ones again) are incredibly run down, even though the locations are amazing. It's much better to do day trips in Etosha than overnight there.

Onguma, though? Safari heaven. Packed with game, beautifully run, and offering a choice of stunning camps. I stayed at Camp Kala (gorgeous), Bush Camp (gorgeous in a different way), and Tented Camp (possibly my favourite – all canvas, waterholes and serenity). Think outdoor showers, lantern-lit dinners, dreamy views and waterhole wildlife right from the comfort of your bed. If you need convincing, the reels on our socials tell the story far better than I can.

Okonjima: big cats, big stories

I rounded things off at Okonjima, slightly south of Otjiwarongo, and the home of the AfriCat Foundation. This is a conservation success story wrapped up in one of the most beautiful private reserves I’ve ever stayed in. Okonjima used to be a cattle farm – now it’s home to leopards, cheetahs, hyenas and, if you're very lucky, pangolins. I didn’t spot one this time, but just knowing it was possible was enough to keep me scanning the shadows.

What I loved most was the freedom to walk – either with a guide or solo. Proper trails, beautiful views, and the best excuse to work off all those incredible safari meals. It felt like the perfect ending: a place that combines comfort, conservation and connection in all the right ways.

What I know now

Namibia is big. Like really big. You don’t come here for fast-paced action or game around every corner – Etosha’s the main big game destination, and even there, you need patience. But if you want soul-stirring landscapes, wildlife encounters that don’t feel rushed, and time to breathe, this is the place.

I only scratched the surface. There’s still Sossusvlei. The Skeleton Coast. Damaraland. Swakopmund. Caprivi. I’ll be back – but next time, I’m staying longer. This is not a destination to cram into a few rushed days. Namibia needs time, space and a proper sense of adventure.

So bring a scarf for the early mornings, a sense of humour for the bumpy roads, and your curiosity. I’ll help with the rest. Let’s talk if you’re keen – I’ve got all the good stuff saved up and ready to share.

Text: Sharon Gilbert-Rivett